Appenzell is in the eastern and German-speaking region of Switzerland. It's a story-book setting where age-old traditions are maintained as part of daily life, a place with colorfully painted wooden buildings, the musical sounds of yodelers, dulcimers, giant-sized cowbells,  alpenhorns, and dairy cows. And if you visit during one of many special occasions, you will see the residents decked out in colorful tradtional costumes.

First, we validated our Swiss Passes at the airport train station and were off with unlimited use of the Swiss public transport system of trains, postal buses, boats, and aerial tramways. 

Not surprisingly, it all runs with the precision timing for which the Swiss are renowned.

THE APPENZELL AREA 

Between the 10th and 15th centuries, this region was owned by the abbey at St. Gallen and gained its name, Abbacella, or abbot’s cell.  Tithes and restrictions led to a struggle for  independence, and  in 1513 Appenzell became  part of the Swiss Confederation. The canton is divided between the larger, Protestant, and more industrial Appenzell Ausserrhoden to the north and west and the Catholic, traditional, and agricultural Appenzell Innerrhoden to the south.

In 1991, the Swiss Supreme Court forced Appenzell Innerrhoden to grant women the right to vote locally, a process that takes place outdoors by the raising of hands

in Landsgemeindeplatz, the historic town square.

Our hotel, The Hof Weissbad Appenzell und Gesundheit,  is a resort and spa for restoring and maintaining good health (gesundheit). 

 It is a short train ride just a stop from Appenzell--two if someone signals to stop in between.

The hotel also offers complimentary van service.

Guests visit for the therapies offered and amenities such as the indoor and outdoor pools, saunas and dining.

Hotel Hof Weissbad was renovated and given a a striking contemporary decor in 2009. Glass elevators lead to guest rooms with stunning views. Guest bathrooms are well-equipped, right down to the remote control multi-functional toilet. Bicycle rentals are complimentary, and walking paths are just outside the door.

As with most area accommodations, Hof Weissbad provides an Appenzell Card with stays of three or more nights, good for local transport and attractions such as museum and pool admissions, a cheese-tasting, a toboggan run, an audio walk, and a bicycle rental.

Each floor has a refreshment area with complimentary  fruit, herbal teas, and an Appenzell fruit and herbal flavored mineral water known as Flauder. 

Pathways run throught the herb garden, where visitors might encounter the chef collecting what he needs for dinner.

Four days a week, cheese is made in huts on the hotel grounds, using traditional techniques.  

Ordering is made easier for children, who can make selections from these suitcases of sample meals.

Appenzell's Tourism Office is on the main street, Hauptgasse. It offers guided tours, some of which include a taste of local foods.

They can also book a yodeling lesson with Thomas Sutter. 

 Lessons include the opportunity to learn Talerschwingen, the spinning of a 5 franc coin in one of the three different-size milk bowls to add an accompanying hum.

Both the Town Hall and Baroque parish church, Kirche St. Mauritius (Moritz), were built in the 16th century.

  including its colorful costumes collection.

The town is lined with shops featuring local arts and crafts like the traditional embroidery that is part of a cottage industry as well as fine jewelry.

Löwen Pharmacy and other buildings are colorfully painted to indicate the products inside or perhaps a significant cultural or historical event.

 A chocolate bar emblem at the Bazar Hershche reminds us that Milton Hershey’s family came from Appenzell.

Huge cowbells on elaborately decorated straps hang in the window of Hampi Fässler's shop. 

His other products include traditional leather suspenders adorned with metalwork, hand crafted by this family for  seven generations.

Hotel Adler’s Haus Bakerei is a popular stop for freshly baked treats like birnebrot or birnweggen (pear bread),  biberlis (gingerbread, often filled with marzipan) , or Appenzeller Chäsflade  (cheese bread).  Hotel Adler, in a house from 1562, has a restaurant and special fondue area, as well as accommodations.

Mösler’s is one of the best places to discover the unique flavors of the spicy Appenzeller  cheese.—classic, surchoix, or extra—made with a secret mixture of 42 herbs .

Appenzell is also known for its variety of sausages like alpenklubber, Südwooscht, Schüblig mit Speckwürful, and the ever-popular Mostbröckli , raw meat preserved in salt and seasoning, smoked and dried, all found at family-run Melzey Wetter’s.

Beermaking here dates to 1728. Names include  Vollmond (full moon), Hanfblüte (hempflower), and the popular pale lager, Quöllfrisch. 

Our guide, Maria Hamm, at the Hotel Löwen

Top off the day with some Appenzeller Alpenbitter, 29% alcohol, and made with—you guessed it-- 42 secret herbs.  Prost!

Travel tip: Be sure to look others in the eye when making a toast, or risk being considered rude.

A picturesque ride through the countryside takes you to Hotel Bären in nearby Schlatt for a typical Appenzell dinner.  Don’t be surprised if you have to stop for cows in the road.

In mid-May cows are adorned with flowers and ceremoniously taken to high alpine pastures. In September, they are led back down.  Herdsmen wear their traditional costume of yellow breeches, decorated leather suspenders, red embroidered vest, silver-buckled black shoes, black flower-bedecked hat, and a gold earring fashioned after a wooden cream spoon, worn on the right ear. Also in costume, a boy in leads and a girl tends a small herd of goats. Each of three prize cows wears a bell weighing 15 to 50 pounds and a brightly decorated collar. Pigs and a horse drawn wagon with utensils follow. Last of all is the Appenzell cattle dog. Contact the tourist bureau for a list of other occasions when regional costumes are worn.

Appenzellerland has nearly 750 miles of marked mountain and valley trails. Wear your hiking gear and take the cableway up from Wasserauen to the Ebenalp.  

Rocky paths along steep rock cliffs lead to a prehistoric cave, a hermit’s dwelling, and a cave chapel, Wildkirchli, inhabited, at different times, by giant cave bears and hermits. 

The mountain forms the back wall of the Ӓescher Inn, which seems suspended from the side of the mountain. The carved wood menu includes hearty meat and rōsti (shredded potatoes, often served with cheese) dishes.

Hikers can dine with a breathtaking view from the side the mountain, with the sense of being suspended from the cliff...

or enjoy the cozy ambience inside.

For a view without the trek there’s easy access from Schwägalp’s cable car to Appenzell’s signature mountain, Säntis, at 8200’ the area’s highest peak.

DID YOU KNOW  that you can lease a cow from a farmer? This entitles you to whatever the cow has produced in the form of cheese.

TRIP PLANNER

 To create your own peak experience contact:
Switzerland Tourism