Lake and mountains: The Basin Harbor Club
The Basin Harbor Club is a hideaway named for the harbor on Lake Champlain that it encircles. This 700 acre lakeside resort has 147 guest rooms, including over seventy cottages.
It is only about 25 miles south of Burlington and about 200 miles northwest of Boston but is in an agricultural region that makes it feel worlds away.
It is a member of the Historic Hotels of America, a National Trust for Historic Preservation program, which means it is recognized nationally or locally as part of America’s cultural heritage.
The Basin Harbor Club goes back to 1886 when this was a farm and, as was done back then, Ardelia Beach began taking in summer boarders who wanted to escape the city’s summer heat.
While it is updated on an ongoing basis, it has retained its old-time friendly and wholesome ambience and service.
During the summer season there is a children’s camp and teen program for ages 3 to 17 and a nearly a one-to-one ratio of staff to guests. This pet-friendly facility even has its own dog beach.
It is a popular place for groups, weddings, and conferences year-round. Some now come by boat or by plane to the private airstrip.
Often when rain falls on the west side of the mountain, the sun shines in the “Basin Harbor bubble.”
The Basin Harbor Club is now in the fifth generation management by the Beach family.
Casual meals are offered in the Red Mill Restaurant, in a renovated lumber mill. It is a place to enjoy favorites like fried pickles, Boyden Farms Beef Cottage Pie, and Basin Harbor Club’s private label Red Chair Ale.
People return to year after year to enjoy the signature “active tranquility.” We overheard the couple at the next table telling the waiter that they held their wedding here eleven years ago and come back every year to celebrate their anniversary.
A wedding with 150 guests was held that Saturday. The 105-year-old grandmother of the bride, host Pennie Beach told us, had been coming here for 75 years. A group of couples arrived after breakfast the next day, as they do every year, to dine and golf together.
Today’s Basin Harbor Resort has a range of accommodations including over seventy classic studio, one-, two-, and three-bedroom cottages, each uniquely decorated in a summer home decor, many with fireplaces, decks, and lakeside views. There are fourteen comfortable second and third floor guest rooms (no elevator) with private baths in the Main Lodge.
It was the original farmhouse. Part of the patio area is shaded by a century-old woody vine known as Dutchman’s Pipe.
There are vintage rooms in the Homestead Building. Built in 1792, it is the oldest operating inn on Lake Champlain. For groups or families there’s the three-bedroom Penfield Place, second-generation host Allen Penfield Beach’s cottage, or Champlain House, a hotel-style 1920s building with a living room area and six identical guest rooms with private baths.
Those favoring more modern accommodations choose the newest building, the upscale Adirondack-style Summit, built in 2009. There are large fireplaces in every room or suite and flexibility of creating one-, two-, and three-bedroom combinations.
Our cottage, Montevista, had a deck, two bedrooms and bathrooms, and a living room with windows on three sides that overlooked Lake Champlain and the Adirondacks.
We picked up wifi but found ourselves putting it aside to enjoy what this place is about.
We were sleepy soon after the sun set and wakened before sunrise to see the curtain of morning mist rise to reveal the rosy tones of sunrise over the Adirondacks and reflecting on the lake. The sounds of the water gently lapped against the shore and a bird the chirped from a nearby the harbor, some in groups, others in pairs or all alone.
Ducks bobbed in the rippling water, some birds formed a line and skimmed the water, others splashed in for a fish. Butterflies flitted about. A pair of kayakers and a few sailboats glided by.
There was time to savor the nature that surrounded us. We spotted animal shapes in the puffy clouds, watched as a spider walked nimbly across the deck railing, and noticed how clusters of little con everyday life. This is what a vacation should be.
The lavish breakfast buffet featured items like maple or pumpkin flavored Green Mountain Creamery yogurt, eggs to order, fruits, meats and cheeses, house-made granola, freshly baked pastries, and award-winning local Blake Hill Preserves in flavors like Raspberry Hibiscus and Peach Ginger.
The apple fritter was the best we had ever tasted. Or was it that we took the time to enjoy it?
Other suggested activities included a round of golf on the 18-hole course or golf lessons and clinics with onsite PGA Teaching Professional Bob Prange, whose accolades include being named Top Instructor List Golf Digest and Golf Magazine. The resort and golf course were first in Vermont to be named Certified Audubon Cooperative Sanctuaries.
There’s plenty to do if you want to. All sorts of boat can be rented.There’s swimming in the lake or heated pool, tennis, biking —including electric bikes— a fitness center, and spa treatments at the Blue Chair Day Spa.
Complimentary fishing poles, beach boats, kiddie boats and sand toys are available at the beach.
The adjacent Maritime Museum has a blacksmith and glassblower and 15,000 objects, images and documents, like an ice boat, that tell the history of Lake Champlain.
Need help deciding or arranging? Just ask the concierge.
Dressing for dinner in the lakeside formal dining room means jackets and collared shirts for men and dressier attire for women during the summer season. It’s resort casual off season, when the dining room is open for dinner fewer days.
Executive Chef Christian Kruse, a graduate of the New England Culinary Institute, uses the bounty of Vermont’s local producers — cheeses, free range poultry and beef, and crisp produce, much from their own farm, as inspiration for his seasonal menus to pair with the resort’s award-winning wine list.
We spent our time strolling on nature paths and through flower gardens in full bloom. One behind the Main Lodge has an Alice in Woodland theme.
Surprise Garden is named after a much-loved former gardner.
We relaxed and enjoyed the view from our deck or the brightly-painted signature Adirondack chairs that overlook the lake. It felt like simpler times, the way things used to be.
The Basin Harbor Club is open mid-May to mid-October.