Appenzell: A taste of traditional Switzerland

One of our favorite places in Switzerland is the traditional Appenzell, in the eastern part of Switzerland, south of Lake Constance. It is hill country at its finest and best known for its colorfully painted wooden buildings, the musical sounds of yodelers, dulcimers, giant-sized cowbells, and alphorns, and dairy farmers.

The canton, or federal state of the Swiss Confederation, is divided between the larger, Protestant, and more industrial Appenzell Ausserrhoden to the north and west and the Catholic, traditional, and agricultural Appenzell Innerrhoden to the south.

In 1991, the Swiss Supreme Court forced Appenzell Innerrhoden to grant women the right to voting locally, a process that takes place with in an open-air parliament held outdoors in the historic town square, Landsgemeindeplatz, by the raising of hands.

Our hotel , the Hofweissbad Appenzell und Gesundheit, is a resort and spa.

It was beautifully renovated in 2009 and with wellness facilities for restoring and maintaining good health (gesundheit) and several fine dining options, as well.

It is a short walk from the train station in picture-perfect Weissbad, which is a short train ride from Appenzell.

Their breakfast buffet is a showcase of local cheeses, meats, eggs, beverages, and mueslis. Dinner might include the tender local Kalb-Bier, inspired by Japan’s Kobe-Beef. Professional cheesemakers demonstrate traditional techniques four days a week.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Most area accommodations also provide an Appenzell Card with stays of three or more nights, good for local transport and attractions such as museum and pool admissions, a cheese-tasting, a toboggan run, an audio walk, and a bicycle rental. Both the Town Hall and Baroque parish church, Kirche St. Mauritius (Moritz), were built in the 16th century.

The Tourism Office on Appenzell’s main street, Hauptgasse, offers all the usual information about the area as well as guided tours, some of which include a taste of local foods. They can also book a yodeling lesson with someone like Thomas Sutter.

Though I’ll never be a good yodeler, I discovered a knack for Talerschwingen, spinning a 5 franc coin in one of the three different-size milk bowls to add an accompanying hum.

The Appenzell Museum, a showcase of area culture and traditions, including its colorful costumes collection, is inside Town Hall.

The pedestrian-only part of the town is lined with shops featuring local arts and crafts like the lace and embroidery that is part of a cottage industry.

Löwen Pharmacy and other buildings are colorfully painted to indicate the products inside or perhaps a significant cultural or historical event.

Colorful metal signs are crafted in shapes that indicate shops, restaurants, services, and studios of local craftsmen inside.

A small chocolate bar emblem at the Bazar Hersh is a reminder that Milton Hershey’s family came from Appenzell.

Appenzell is known for it high quality hand crafted products,

Huge cowbells on elaborately decorated straps hang in the window of Hampi Fässler ‘s shop. His other hand crafted metalwork products include traditional leather shoes belts and suspenders, hand crafted by this family for seven generations.

Dog collars have become increasingly popular.

Hotel Adler’s Haus Bakerei is a popular stop for freshly baked treats like birnebrot or birnweggen (pear bread), biberlis (gingerbread filled with marzipan) , or Appenzeller Chäsflade (cheese bread). Hotel Adler is in a house from 1562 and has a restaurant and special fondue area, as well as accommodations.

Hazelnut turnovers known as chrempfli are another traditional favorite.

Mösler’s is one of the best places to discover the unique flavors of the spicy Appenzeller cheese.—classic, surchoix, or extra—made with a secret mixture of 42 herbs .

Appenzell is also known for its variety of sausages like alpenklubber, Südwooscht, Schüblig mit Speckwürful, and the ever-popular Mostbröckli , raw meat preserved in salt and seasoning, smoked and dried, all found at family-run Melzey Weller’s.

Beermaking dates to 1728, Enhance your meal with Vollmond (full moon), Weizen (wheat), or Hanfblüte (hempflower).

Top off the day with some Appenzeller Alpenbitter, 29% alcohol, and made with—you guessed it– 42 secret herbs. Prost!

A picturesque ride through the countryside takes you to places like Hotel Bären in nearby Schlatt, where you can have a typical Appenzell dinner made with farm fresh ingredients.

Don’t be surprised if you have to stop for cows in the road along the way.

Be sure to try some local wine, like this Appenzeller Riesling.