Farm to table: Nova Scotia’s Annapolis Valley
It was a landscape of rolling hills, winding roads, and farms as we approached the fertile Annapolis Valley. With apple orchards, vineyards, dairy cows, and the abundant seafood from the Bay of Fundy, it’s an ideal destination for experiencing the province’s bounty. To top it off, when the tide rolls out you can walk on the ocean floor and search for fossils.
The 17th century French settlers called it L’Acadie. They built dykes to reclaim tidal lands and brought apples to the area. After these French Acadians were deported by the British, English Planters from New England were offered their land. In 1847, Henry Wadsworth Longfellow brought the story to the English-speaking world in Evangeline.
The area’s warm days and cool nights are ideal for reddening of its renowned apple crop, and Nova Scotia now runs the largest apple enterprise in eastern Canada. Apples are featured on menus and in delicious dessert wines throughout the province. There is an annual Apple Blossom Festival.
Nova Scotia is second only to Maine in producing wild blueberries. From August 20 to September 4 this provincial berry will be celebrated in the annual Wild Blueberry Harvest Festival. Visit in October for the Pumpkin Fest when colorfully clad pumpkin people decorate fields and yards throughout Kentville.
A few stops in the Annapolis Valley shouldn’t be missed:
Awaken your senses at Tangled Garden in Grand Pré where unique jellies, vinegars, and liqueurs are infused with herbs from the garden, using Annapolis Valley fruits and wines. Take home some colorful liqueurs like Radiant Raspberry with heavenly Rose Geranium, lavender maple syrup, hot peach salsa, and apple sage jelly.
Meet the farmer’s daughter and cheesemaker, Melissa Rand, at Fox Hill Cheese House/Fromagerie, RR #1, Port Williams, part of a sixth generation family farm that takes production “from seed to grass to milk to cheese to you”. Cheese, yogurt, and gelato are made on-site from the milk of the 50-head herd of Holstein cows tended by her brother, Rick.
Watch through the viewing window on cheese making days. Sample cheeses like the soft, creamy quark, also available at the Wolfville and Halifax Farmers’ Markets.
Shop for homemade jam and local honey, or pick your own pumpkins, flowers, or Honeycrisp, one of the dozens of varieties of apples, at Noggins Farm, in the Bishop family before Canada became a country. It’s on Hwy 1 in Greenwich, just outside Wolfville. In fall there’s an 8.5 acre corn maze and cider.
You’ll also want to stop at Henniger’s Farm Market, Highway #1 in Wolfville, where you can also discover the pleasures of their Farmer’s Golf.
Try the complimentary sampling at Gaspereau Vineyards, set in the beautiful Gaspereau Valley, just outside Wolfville. For the sweetest of wine pairings, try port sweetened with Nova Scotia maple sugar, served in dark chocolate cups, or maple wine paired with maple fudge. Pick up some icewine to serve with blue cheese and pear pie.
Nova Scotia’s unique pungent Dragon’s Breath Blue Cheese with black wax casing comes from That Dutchman’s Farm, RR #1 in Upper Economy.
The university town of Wolfville is known for its dining and country inns, and among the best is Blomidon Inn, 195 Main Street a former sea captain’s home with a delightful garden path. Room rates include afternoon tea and a breakfast buffet. Some packages include a four-course candlelit dinner at the Tempest Restaurant, 117 Front Street, considered one of the top restaurants in Canada.
To learn about grape growing, winemaking, and wine tasting, there’s no better choice than Domain de Grand Pré, on Highway #1. As an economusée it showcases the traditional craftsmanship of wine production. The restaurant, Le Caveau, serves global cuisine from local ingredients, like pork schnitzel or lobster with L’Acadie Blanc Reserve, a Nova Scotian wine with a fruity, buttery finish. Owned by Hans Peter Stutz, daughter Beatrice Jurt manages the restaurant, son Juerg makes the wine, and Juerg’s wife handles the wine tasting.
The best place to be on Saturday mornings is the Wolfville Farmer’s Market, where you can shop for fresh produce, baked goods like classic French breads, ethnic foods, and locally made arts and crafts.
Looking forward to visiting your market