Through the Heart of Europe: the second time around

Fourteen years ago we took our first Viking River Cruise to celebrate a special birthday. Our journey along the Danube, the Rhine, and the canal that connects them was one of our best trips ever, something so many of our fellow passengers said, as well.

We have taken other river cruises since then, but with Roger celebrating a special birthday this year, we decided to do our first trip again. Would the Grand European Tour from Budapest to Amsterdam be as much fun the second time around?

It was. And more.

We visited five countries in the heart of Europe — Hungary, Austria, Germany, the Netherlands, and Belgium. We spent fourteen nights on the ship and two nights each in Amsterdam and Ghent hotels.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A box arrived in the mail a few weeks before our cruise with suggestions for packing and preparing for the trip. There were leather luggage tags, zippered organizing bags, and an 87 page colorfully illustrated booklet about our destinations and what we would do or could choose to do during our trip. Red stickers were included so we could be easily identified at the airport.

We were greeted by two local Viking representatives when we arrived in Budapest at 9 a.m. Most people were arriving later, so the two of us we were driven by taxi rather than one of Viking River Cruise’s motor coaches used for excursions.

One of the best things about a river cruise is that you do not need to go far to see the best sights. Viking River Cruises usually has the best docking spots.

In Budapest, for example, we were right by the Chain Bridge that leads to the Royal Palace and Castle Hill. In Passau we were docked by the Old Town to one side and overlooked the Veste Oberhaus, a fortress built in 1219 on the other.

We planned to check in, use the free wifi to send a message home, enjoy some onboard refreshments and explore the city until our room was ready. We were delighted when  the Hotel Manager, Jens Wehrenberg, came out to tell us that “A group left early in the morning for their flights. We knew when you were arriving,” he said with a smile, “and we did our best to have a room ready for you.”

How good it felt to be able to shower, unpack, and relax in the privacy of our stateroom before heading out! By 11:30 lunch was ready onboard. Afterwards we took a leisurely stroll along the Danube to Budapest’s Parliament building, the magnificent domed building featured in many of Viking River Cruises’ advertisements.

Eighty-eight pound of gold were used in the halls and stairways, but the greatest treasure is the jeweled 12th century Holy Crown topped with a tilted cross.

Tours of the interior sell out quickly, so we reserved our places in advance online and checked the times of the Changing of the Guard.

As we were about to leave the ship we noticed an elderly couple whose luggage had not arrived with them. Mr. Wehrenberg assured them that it would be taken care of and that the staff would be happy to wash their clothes for them at night, free of charge, until their bags arrived.

It is the level of comfort and personalized service that sets this type of trip apart from the rest. When we returned to the ship from an excursion we were often be greeted with a refreshing drink or a special treat, often by the chef or Hotel Manager himself.

Staff members mentioned the sense of family that develops among them on a smaller ship, and it was reflected in the unwavering service with a smile. The staff worked together, with the Hotel Manager often serving at the buffet or helping with luggage and everyone pitching in whenever needed. Returning to the ship after visiting a port feels like going home.

Because we had already seen so many of the top attractions in each port, this time we were able to revisit favorite spots and add experiences we hadn’t had chance to do before. There was more time to explore, to linger, and to savor the best of each port.

Viking River Cruises now offers optional tours, at additional cost, for more specialized or in-depth experiences. By being able to book them in advance online, we were able to relax and sit back onboard, knowing that everything had been taken care of.

We opted to add an afternoon trip to the Hungarian countryside for a performance of Puszta, traditional Hungarian horsemanship.

We attended a Mozart and Strauss concert our first night in Vienna.

The next afternoon we had a for a culinary tour in the Palais Ferstel . The palace was once a Viennese social center with salon areas, a ballroom, and the renowned Café Central, the popular meeting spot for artists, writers, politicians, and scientists, people like like Hitler, Stalin, Sigmund Freud, and Leo Trotsky.

We sampled wine and a Brettljause platter of fine air dried ham, prosciutto and cheeses from the Styrian region of Austria in a deli and wine bar called Vulcanothek.  This is the only place that serves these foods outside of Styria, “The Austrian Tuscany”, a lush  volcanic area by the Slovenian border.

We continued through arcade courtyard for a demonstrationby Chef Roland Huber on how to prepare Kaiserschmarrn, a favorite of Emperor Franz Josef.  It was named by the Imperial Palace baker after the slender Empress Sisi, who ate very little, refused to eat it. The Emperor said “Give me that nonsense.”, hence the name. Kaiserschmarrn, or “Emperor’s trifle”. Here’s a recipe link.

That evening weshared in the gemütlichkeit, and  enjoyed traditional food and the latest vintage, or cheerful coziness, at a Viennese vineyard and tavern.

Little wonder river cruises have surged in popularity. It is relaxing to unpack once, travel between destinations while you sleep, and enjoy the ever-changing scenery. The most picturesque stretches of the rivers, like the steeply sloped terraced vineyards of Austria’s Wachau Valley, are cruised by day with narration.

Even the life-jacket drill on the sun deck was timed to enjoy the view of the castle in Bratislava, Slovakia.

Heavy rains and flooding the week before our cruise prevented the ship we booked from passing through an area of low bridges and getting to Budapest. Since two of Viking’s longships travel simultaneously in opposite directions, the solution to floods and droughts is switching midway to the other ship and continuing the voyage. We began our cruise on the Viking Baldur and met our originally booked ship, the Viking Magni, midway through the cruise.

The ships are named for Norse gods and heroes, reflecting the company’s Norwegian heritage. Baldur, the popular Norse god of light and joy, was the son of Odin and Frigg. Magni, the Norse god of strength, was even stronger than father, the giant main god, Thor, the thunder god known for his hammer.

On the morning of the exchange we packed our bags and set them outside our stateroom on the Baldur. Staff members rolled the luggage outside and lined up to wave goodbye as we departed for the morning. Since the waters had subsided by then, the ships simply changed places. Our bags were rolled back to the same stateroom number on the Magni, where we returned for lunch after our excursion.

Walking tours of the top places of interest are offered in each port. We each had a quiet box, a headset that makes the guide’s voice audible to all in the group. Maps and cards with the location and contact information for the ship are available for each port for those who decide to explore on their own. With fewer than 200 passengers onboard getting on and off the ship is a breeze.

A brief pre-dinner presentation is held daily  in the lounge to discuss the next day’s destination and activities. Newsletters are placed in the stateroom during dinner with the next day’s schedule, background information, and places of interest. Information is also available on the stateroom televisions.

There’s a bountiful buffet as well as menu selections at breakfast and lunch. Lunch and dinner  menus feature an array of artistically presented regional and popular specialties and complimentary beer and wine. Caesar salad, poached Norwegian salmon, chicken breast, and prime rib eye steak were also nightly dinner options.

Taste of Germany night was a fun fest, with staff in dirndls and lederhosen, kitchen tours, and local musicians.

An array of German wines, beers and schnapps complemented traditional favorites like pork knuckles, sausages, dumplings, sauerkraut and strudel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There were grand and glorious imperial cities that had been ruled by the most powerful sovereign dynasties and clergy. Gilded palaces and cathedrals reflecting the wealth and splendor of their lifestyles were the utmost in awe though architecture.

Storied castles loomed high above us as we cruised the Rhine.

The cobblestone lanes of half-timbered houses in preserved medieval villages reminded us of fairy tales.

Our trip was an immersion in the history, good times and bad, that made Europe what it is today. We gained insights into ways trade, plagues, wars, and religious and political changes led to the rise and fall of wealth, power, and people over the ages.

Although some still bear the marks of war, most of the destroyed or damaged structures have been restored or replaced. The personal stories shared by several of our guides, however, revealed the memories that endure.

A trip of this length was made possible by the completion of the 106 mile Rhine-Main-Danube Canal in 1992.  This canal runs from Bamberg on the Main River, a Rhine tributary, to Kelheim on the Danube. Sixteen stair-step locks accommodate a 574’ difference in elevation.

Part of the fun of a river cruise is seeing the variety of ships and boats along the rivers.

There are barges, canal ships, tankers,and container ships that transport goods along this working waterway. Some travel the full length through Europe from the Netherlands’ coast on the North Sea to Romania and the Black Sea, a distance of 2,200 miles, passing  through ten countries along the way.

One of the first things to consider when planning a trip is the means of travel that is the best fit. Is a river cruise for you? Probably not if f you crave the excitement of a casino and Las Vegas-style shows, and swimming pools. Onboard entertainment is typically local musicians, a local craftsperson such as a glassblower, or a speaker on topics related to the destinations.

The decor lacks the glitz of typical ocean cruise ships. It is typically Scandinavian with understated elegance and soft relaxing colors.

If you enjoy experiencing the sights, sounds and flavors of a variety of destinations in the most relaxing way, with all your needs taken care of,  then take a look at what a Viking River Cruise has to offer.